Feel the steamy, passionate embrace of Seville for the first time and you'll know that you're somewhere unforgettable. This is the home of the soul-ripping sound of flamenco, the sombre and spectacular Semana Santa (Holy Week) processions, the glory and gore of bullfighting, and the jolly relief of Feria de Abril (April Festival). Seville is where highly strung Carmen rolled cigars on her thighs and loved a bullfighter, it's where Don Juan worked his mojo in times long gone, and it's where Cervantes and Columbus knocked back glasses of sherry. Shrouded in its pungent cloak of orange blossoms and dressed in art and culture, Seville is spellbinding.For a quick overview of this spellbinding city - and a bit of Spanish music to set the mood - check out "Jose Manual Soto - Cuando Vuelva a Sevilla en Primavera" on www.youtube.com .
Sevilla is in Andalusia, the Southeastern corner of Spain. Andalusia contains 8 smaller provinces, 5 of which border on either the Atlantic or Mediterranean. The city of Sevilla is inland with an overall elevation of 30 meters, and straddling the Guadalquivir river. Its population is around 700,000 - one might say it's a fair-sized city. The Sevilla airport is located 7 km east of the city centre with bus service in every half hour. I see the bus trip costs about 2.5 Euros Since I'm exploring Sevilla only in my imagination, my travel expenses are very minimal! Another good thing about exploring Sevilla only in my imagination is avoiding the real discomfort of Sevilla's 100 degree Fahrenheit summer heat!
I decided to stay at a PARADOR, a government-run hotel. These are all over Spain, and can be historic Arab fortresses, castles, palaces, or even Christian monasteries or convents. You can check out "my" Parador, Posada del Lucero, here:
You can read about it in English - check out the language button top right. The hotel itself is intriguing, and its location is perfect for further city exploration. HOWEVER, I arrived during siesta hours, so the first order of business was a wee rest before tapeando, going out for tapas. There are Tascas, bars specializing in tapas, aplenty, and y'all know I'm pretty adventurous when it comes to trying new foods! I discovered gazpacho is a popular menu item. It is said that "del gazpacho no hay empacho" (gazpacho doesn't make an upset stomach), and this cold tomato soup is recommended to be very refreshing in the hot summer. You can see the recipe and preparation of traditional Andalucian Gazpacho by checking out "Gastronomia Sevillana" on www.youtube.com . All I can say is - Y U C K !!! I am not a fan of cold tomatoes in ANY country! But there were plenty of other yummy tapas offerings to compensate.
Day 2, I explored Sevilla's city centre, looking for una tienda que vende lana y agujas de tejer (a shop that sells wool and knitting needles). After all, this vacation (in my mind) is BASED ON knitting!
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| Spanish Sock #1 - heel turned. |
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| Spanish Sock #1 - foot completed. |
One of the first places I explored was the Alcazar, a 1300s palace built on a former Moorish fortress. It is the official residence of Spanish royalty when they come to Sevilla. You can take a look at the Alcazar here:
The website is in Spanish, but there are plenty of lovely photographs that don't need translation. One might be interested to learn that the Alcazar was once home to a royal mistress so seductive that Spanish men lined up to drink her bath water! (Another yuck!)
The second place I explored was the big cathedral - and I do not jest when I say BIG! It is the largest and highest church in Spain, and apparently the world's third largest church. It was the site of a Moorish mosque until mid-1200s, then reconsecrated Christian. In early 1400s, the mosque/church was demolished - except for the minaret and outer courtyard - and Catholic Spaniards set out to "build a church so large that we shall be held to be insane"! (They succeeded very nicely!) You can check it out here:
The altarpiece, or retablo, in the main chapel is the largest in all of Christiandom. There is a monument to Christopher Columbus on the South side, but apparently some controversy over whether the bones interred there belong to old Christopher himself. There is an interesting painting of Saint Anthony on the North side. It was painted in mid-1600s, cut out and stolen in the late 1800s, then eventually found in New York City and returned to the Cathedral in Sevilla. (Perhaps Saint Anthony wanted to go walk about?) One can be more than just a tourist in the cathedral - one can actually participate in a worship service in the Capilla Real (Royal Chapel) - so long as you are not wearing shorts or a sleeveless top (I suppose the 13th century dead in the tombs along the sides of this chapel would disapprove!). I took a little time there with my rosary.
The Giralda is the original Moorish minaret. The Christian belfry and church bells were added late 1500s. The tower stands over 320 feet high, and one can climb up two-thirds of that for a bird's-eye view of the city.
That pretty much ate up my second day, and there was still so much to see and do, including a visit to inner city Parque Maria Luisa to feed the doves, a visit to the Museo Arqueologico to check out artifacts from Phoenician to medieval periods, an evening out at the Tablaos or flamenco clubs, a horse-drawn carriage tour around the city and a guided walking tour (www.sevillawalkingtours.com ), and an evening river cruise. I debated on taking in a bullfight, but decided to give that bloody sport a pass (that pleased my vegetarian daughter, I'm sure)! There was still shopping to do -- who can visit Spain without checking out the beautiful trajes de flamenca (polka-dot flamenco dresses) or some of those amazing Yemas de Santa Teresa (Saint Teresa pastries)? It was all rather overwhelming, so I decided instead to retreat to an early-1400s monastery located about 2.5 kilometers from the city in a 40-hectare forest. My room in the guest house was perfect for relaxing with my knitting! You can check it out at:
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| Spanish Sock #1 - completed. Next - the second sock. |
The mountain views there are spectacular, and it's cooler than in the city, so I might just stay there a few more days.
So until next Friday, feliz sonando y circulares (happy dreaming and knitting)!
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